Nestled within the commercial blocks of Setia Alam is Restoran Hock Gee Ulu Yam Loh Mee (福气正宗乌鲁音卤面饭店). Located adjacent to Iggo, Restoran Hock Gee claims to inherit the famed Loh Mee (卤面) recipe from Ulu Yam.
Besides Loh Mee, there are also other Chinese stir-frying (煮炒) dishes that are ubiquitous in such food establishments.
For example, the menu contains more than a dozen types of noodles and rice dishes. No doubt, the signature Loh Mee is at the top of the list.
It is also possible to order individual dishes like pork, chicken, egg, bean curd and vegetables. These dishes are often eaten with plain white rice.
For starters, we ordered a plate of Salad You Tiaw (沙律油条, RM9.00) as appetizer. This is essentially deep-fried breadsticks cut into bite-size pieces, tossed with diced cucumber and tomatoes, then dressed with mayonnaise over a bed of shredded cabbage.
While the taste of this appetizer is acceptable, there is nothing really to shout about. For the price we paid, I expected to see something more interesting.
Next is the signature dish of this restaurant, Ulu Yam Loh Mee (招牌乌鲁音卤面, RM6.00). This is the Klang Valley version of Loh Mee. According to legend, this dish was invented in Ulu Yam Lama, a small village within an hour’s drive from Kuala Lumpur. Unlike the northern version of Loh Mee, this dish derives its appeal from vinegar-laced egg gravy.
Conventionally, the type of noodles used is thick yellow noodles. Despite its thickness, the starchy noodle is capable of absorbing sour flavors from the gravy. Also included in this dish are sliced pork, pork lard (猪油渣), shrimps and choy sum (菜心). As for my verdict, I think this dish deserves commendation, although I would not go so far to describe it as “superb”.
The next dish is Homemade Hokkien Mee (招牌自制福建面, RM6.00), which uses the same thick yellow noodles as before. The “Hokkien Mee” in this context refers to the Klang Valley variant, not the Prawn Noodles (虾面) that Penangites relate to. The noodles are stir-fired with sliced pork, pork lard, shrimps, choy sum and dark sauce.
In fact, pork lard plays an essential role in this dish. These succulent chunks of pork fat provide the necessary oily sensation that makes the noodles so appealing. In terms of taste, this dish is above average but is still not as good as truly masterful ones throughout Klang Valley.
Hokkien Mee is often enjoyed with chili shrimp paste as the latter’s spiciness helps to elevate the enjoyment of noodles. Personally, I also like to add some chopped garlic for improved flavor.
All in all, I think Restoran Hock Gee does well for in its Loh Mee and Hokkien Mee dishes. Considering serving size, I think the food here is reasonably priced too. However, the dining area is unpleasantly warm in the afternoon.
Address: 3-1-1, Jalan Setia Prima U13/H, 40170 Shah Alam, Selangor
Contact: 012-636-9017
Business hours: 12:00pm-3:00pm, 6:00pm-9:30pm, closed on Mondays
